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Dreamed up by four foodie friends, this self-styled ‘part-time squatters’ restaurant’ is camped in Manze’s old pie and mash shop on Islington’s Chapel Market. Inside, the long dining room with its
handsome Victorian tiling and low-hanging lights has generated quite a buzz with the ‘kooksters’ who pack its high-backed wooden booths to share stylish plates of seasonal game and fish over
corkage-free BYO bottles of wine. The three-course menu (£30) changes weekly: on our visit, plump mussels came nicely accentuated by a sprightly leek and horseradish sauce, while tender venison
haunch with redcurrant jus and triple-cooked chips provided a moreish combination of sweet and salt tones. To finish, an inspired, soufflé-like sponge with a marshmallow centre and a salted caramel
was a plate-licking homage to the Mars bar. If you don’t mind the offbeat, ‘make do and mend’ approach, there’s much to applaud here.
Seagrass opens up Wednesday to Saturday evenings from 7pm taking over the premises of the old pie and mash shop, Manzes. It sits on the run down Chapel Market in Islington and is a wash away from anywhere you would expect to be sitting down for a three-course meal, but after all this is Islington. They operate only one menu, three courses for £30...
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