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Garry Hollihead’s striking restaurant in the five-star Corinthia Hotel is an opulent affair, with huge windows stretching up to double-height ceilings, no-expense-spared crystal chandeliers,
studded leather chairs & vases of picture-prefect blooms. Despite the flowers & sparkle, the overall mood is sufficiently masculine to make Woosterish out-of-towners feel right at home;
elevated prices are also aimed squarely at expense accounts & money-no-object tourists. The kitchen is keen on native produce, & Hollihead’s fastidious sourcing is evident from plump Maldon
oysters to melting slabs of Cumbrian steak & an all-British cheeseboard. Although some dishes needed more oomph when we visited (a rich chicken-liver parfait with Madeira jelly lacked depth),
desserts suchas a miniature, fruit-packed summer pudding served with dense Jersey clotted cream left a pleasingly sweet taste in the mouth. Don’t miss the expertly mixed, botanically infused
cocktails in the swanky standalone bar.
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