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Squaremeal Review of The Modern Pantry Finsbury Square ?

Following the blueprint of the acclaimed Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell, this new branch of Anna Hansen's fusion eatery is attractively housed in the Georgian Alphabeta Building – all high ceilings, arched windows and whitewashed walls, with a standalone tapas bar for lunchtime bites or late-night snacks plus liquid 'refreshers', 'liveners' and sherry-based cocktails. Otherwise, head chef Rob McLeary delivers a "foodie-interesting" all-day menu inspired by Hansen's travels and Kiwi roots. Brunch fans might fancy a salad of smoked burrata, golden beetroot, spelt, toasted buckwheat and pickled plums or a pleasing omelette filled with 'dhansak-spiced' rose veal mince, but plunder the full line-up and you might also find a striking dish of squid-ink battered cod with cassava chips, seaweed relish and crab mayo – another great advert for "creative and complex" fusion food. Likewise, a wide-ranging global wine list provides rich pickings for City folk.

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  1. Published :

    Quiet eating :: Modern Pantry

    I always wondered what all the fuss about brunch was. Was it only the province of the Ladies who Lunch?
    We decided to embark on this journey to the heart of the city (I know how estate agent that phrase sounds) to sample the arrayed delicacies of brunch.
    Berry happy, blueberry, blackberry and fresh apple. I was very happy too. A sweet little treat.
    Toasted buckwheat, rolled oats, puffed wild rice, fennel, sour cherry, almond muesli and apple juice. Now, I admit to being startled here. This was the first time that I had tried apple juice with cereal. I thought it would be vile. It turned out surprisingly...
    More from Quiet eating »

Anna Hansen

From her first job as ‘washer-upper’ for Fergus Henderson when he was at The French House, Anna Hansen was clearly destined for great things. In 1992 she teamed up with fellow Kiwi Peter Gordon and spent the next decade working alongside him – first at Green Street, then the Sugar Club Soho, before partnering with him at The Providores. In 2008, she opened The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell, with a new City branch planned for 2015.

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