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Tourists & hotel guests mingle happily in this cheery little basement bistro, but Le Metro also manages a brisk trade in office lunches, thanks to its two-course set menu (£15). Expect a
user-friendly run through Waldorf salad, rib-eye steak with chips, or grilled salmon with tarragon butter, but don’t rule out the occasional leftfield dish emerging from the open kitchen – perhaps
black-olive gnocchi with tomatoes & balsamic rocket or fishcakes with tomato salsa. Desserts don’t stretch much further than chocolate torte & Eton mess, although sweet tooths can also look
forward to the house afternoon tea. It’s all enacted in a pleasant dining room kitted out in shades of bronze & gold, with floral wallpaper & upholstery, tan leather banquettes, polished
wooden floors, & Shirley Bassey on the stereo.
Lo and behold, a chef who can cook fish correctly. It’s just past midday and I am dining at Le Metro Bar and Brasserie in The Levin Hotel. It’s big sister next door, The Capital may boast a Michelin star but Le Metro is conjuring up perfectly good food for diners. Indeed the bijoux, stylish, closeted basement bistro attracts the local Harrods employees for lunch on a regular basis and it’s easy to see why. It’s an accomplished effort. The basics of good cooking are adhered to, in my meal anyway.To start with I’m presented with a sizeable plate of goats cheese salad that is fresh, simple and tasty. It makes...
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