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It’s too late for many of London’s old pubs – by the time the nicotine stains on the ceiling have gone and the sticky carpets removed, the clientele have found somewhere else to spend their time and money. But chefs Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram are doing their best to reverse that trend here on Hackney Road, on the corner of the lovely Columbia Road flower market. They’ve both spent formative years at St John and are totally immersed in the trend for proper British food, so expect cooked hams, salt beef and pickled fish to be on the menu, and anything that can be usefully served with their shared passion – chutney. But even though there’s a real foodie element to the team behind it, customers would be wrong to think of this as a gastropub. First and foremost, this is a modern London boozer serving pints, which just happens to be proficient in the kitchen department too.
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