The Landau at The Langham

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Square Meal Review of The Landau at The Langham ?

In spite of recent personnel changes in the kitchen, the emphasis at The Landau is still on a high-end carte supported by grazing-style tasting menus. Typically, you might sample pumpkin velouté with cannelloni of roasted ceps & Parmesan, before native lobster thermidor with Gloucester Old Spot pork belly & basil cassoulet or roast Label Anglaise chicken with confit leg, Savora mustard potatoes & Marsala sauce. To finish, perhaps try caramelised William pear with lime & chocolate. The surroundings are striking, providing a majestic backdrop of high ceilings, huge windows & pristine leather furniture. While it’s certainly seductive, the corporate-hotel vibe is still obvious, with elevated prices attracting a mostly business clientele. Service is seamless & the private room notable for a first-class experience. Wine List: The Landau’s great collection of wine is presented on an innovative & engaging list. Thoughtful notes from the sommelier are augmented by words from celebrated wine makers, who introduce (often rare) verticals of their own vintages. Over 60 pages, modest, moderate & expensive price brackets are well represented. BEST BUY WHITE 2005 Gaba do Xil, Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras, Spain, £30. BEST BUY RED 2005 Coyam, Alvaro Espinoza, Colchagua, Chile, £35.

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