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This unpretentious bar/bistro is already a busy squeeze, although a central Clapham location isn’t its only trump card. Open all day from breakfast onwards, it also has a 2am late licence at
weekends, when cool brand lagers and cocktails such as wild fennel and apple Hendrick’s are what to drink. Wines include a distinguished Lebanese Château Musar as well as everyday Tempranillo from
a selection called ‘sleek, charming and fleshy’ – a description that might equally apply to the well-scrubbed clientele. Chef/owner Robin Gill’s adventurous, intricately presented tapas-style
plates deploy ingredients from The Dairy’s garden – so expect smoked cod with sorrel, slow-cooked beef rib with ‘burnt’ onions and bone marrow or plates of black radish, Pink Lady apple, curd and
hemp seeds – plus nibbles such as chicken liver mousse with rhubarb at the bar. Don't forget to check out recent addition Counter Culture, replacing the deli next door.
So, does it pay to be organised? The restaurants which are constantly booked out are either the latest darling of the London food crowd or have really good food, sometimes both, but after all the weeks of anticipation and hype, do they live up to expectations? This is what I pondered to myself as I headed towards The Dairy in Clapham on a chilly Wednesday night at 6.15pm- the first available table my (much more organised) friend could find when she checked over three weeks earlier.The dining room at the The Dairy is inviting; the rustic wooden table is laid out with mismatched plates, there are some flowers...
More from Connie Consumes »
The second stop on my 30th birthday food tour took me to well-known bistro The Dairy in Clapham. Opened in 2013 under the stewardship of Robin Gill (who’s CV includes spells at Le Manoir and Noma) The Dairy has been receiving national acclaim for its take on modern British food, so as I was in London for some NBA action in the evening I decided to visit for a late lunch.Having perused the website beforehand I had decided that I would go for the very well priced lunch menu which would have seen me get 4 courses for just £25, however once I had the menu in front of me it was too difficult not to go with the...
More from Neil On Meals »
I’ll spare you from an in depth commentary of all its intricacies but generally low points were few and far between and most dishes displayed the chef’s meticulous pairings of flavours and textures.The beef tartare was one of the first “snack” dishes, an amuse bouche if you must. I’m not much of a beef tartare fan myself but it was an apt introduction to the chef’s considered approach to textures within a dish.I have never had salt baked beetroot but this technique brought out the subtle flavours of the beetroot. The thin slivers of beetroot held together well and were complimented by the accompaniments...
More from PANDA EATS LONDON »
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