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SquareMeal Review of The Coach Marlow

Silver Award

Tom Kerridge’s influence on modern pub dining is hard to overstate. From a clutch of successful pubs, including The Hand & Flowers (the UK’s only two Michelin-starred pub), to TV appearances and cook-at-home collaborations, what underpins it all is a reassuring lack of ego.

The Coach sits neatly within that trend. It feels rooted, confident and deliberately local. It also happens to offer the UK’s cheapest Michelin-starred set menu at £15. Inside, the look is classy pub chic: worn leather banquettes, green tiling, dark wood, soft lighting. After ten years in operation, The Coach is only just beginning to show its age, though only in that endearing old boozer kind of way. It hasn’t lost its lustre. On a Saturday lunchtime, families are settling in for the long haul, couples tuck themselves into corners, and small groups chat over pints and puddings.

The best seats, however, are at the pewter counter overlooking the kitchen. From here, The Coach classics stream out at a steady clip. A smoked haddock Scotch egg is technically faultless, with delicately smoked fish, a perfectly jammy yolk and a thin, crisp breadcrumb crust, all set atop a glossy parsley sauce. Mussels marinière follow, submerged in a rich cream sauce, finished with warm stout and matched with nutty brown bread for proper dunking.

Chicken Kyiv is indulgent and properly juicy, while much-lauded hand-cut chips earn their reputation. Best of all is a beautifully flaky piece of hake, resting on a slick, gently spiced sauce, with shaved fennel to neatly cut through the richness.

Dessert is more playful. A toffee apple is reimagined as a glazed choux bun, filled with apple and custard, scented with roast vanilla and drenched in Calvados caramel. It is nostalgic, clever and extremely satisfying.

The appeal is obvious. The food is generous, unfussy and consistently well judged. Service is brisk, cheerful and unpretentious, reinforcing the sense that for many affluent Marlow residents, this really is their local. More importantly, the room feels happy. Staff smile easily, the kitchen chats, and the whole place ticks along with an easy familiarity. Nothing showy, nothing strained, just very good food, done properly.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisine
British, Gastropub
Ambience
Cosy, Traditional
Awards
One Michelin star, SquareMeal UK Top 100
Food Occasions
All day dining, Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Child friendly

About

Helmed by Tom Kerridge, with Brad Cacela leading the kitchen as head chef, The Coach Marlow is a welcoming Michelin-starred pub sitting pretty in the affluent Buckinghamshire town of Marlow. It might have a star, but The Coach is all about elevated pub fare, welcoming service, and occasionally wacky twists on the classics. At its heart, it remains a cosy local. 

The menu is seasonal, offering up a range of smaller plates to start or to share (sharing is encouraged). Inside, the vibe is relaxed, featuring red leather banquettes, cosy nooks, and counter seating that looks directly into the kitchen. It's laid back, featuring TV screens for catching the latest sports action. 

If you fancy yourself a bit of a connoisseur, explore the thoughtfully crafted wine list and a selection of brewed beers and ales, including selections from the local Rebellion Brewery in Marlow. The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner, with the exception of Tuesdays when they take a brief pause. Reservations are available on the day for both lunch and dinner, while weekend breakfast operates on a convenient walk-in basis. Food is split into meat and no meat sections. Begin your meal with a starter of a rotisserie beetroot salad with mulled pear, burrata and hazelnuts, or mussels mariniere with warm stout and brown bread.

If you fancy something that is a twist on a classic, try the smoked haddock scotch egg with parsley sauce, the towering Coach burger, or something from the rotisserie section. Why not then try the crispy pig's head with devil on horseback, celeriac remoulade and date brown sauce, or the spiced parsnip soup with duck samosa and a sesame and peanut sauce. To finish, expect to see The Coach treacle tart with clotted cream, a nostalgic toffee apple choux bun, and beef suet sticky toffee pudding. 

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FAQs

Does The Coach Marlow have a Michelin star?

The Coach Marlow has one Michelin star.

Who is the head chef?

Brad Cacela.

Details

Get directions to The Coach Marlow Get directions to The Coach Marlow
Location
3 West Street, Marlow, Buckinghamshire, SL7 2LS

01628 483013 01628 483013

Website

Opening Times

Breakfast
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat 08:00-10:30
Sun 08:00-10:30
Dinner
Mon 18:00-20:45
Tue Closed
Wed 18:00-20:45
Thu 18:00-20:45
Fri 18:00-20:45
Sat 18:00-20:45
Sun 18:00-20:45
All day
Mon 12:00-14:30
Tue Closed
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri 12:00-14:30
Sat 12:00-14:30
Sun 12:00-14:30

Reviews

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3 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Patricia M

06 April 2019  
Again, prefer the one star place to the two star one. Fabolous place. Best chips (served with Bernaise) ever.

Anon

21 March 2018  
Good food, excellent service from the moment you walk in. Very comfortable and stylish "gentleman's club" decor, good value a joyous experience.

Wendy M

13 January 2015  
Food & Drink 4
Service 4.5
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 4
Proper mod' food in a mod' pub
Music (at just the right level) makes a contrast in atmosphere from Mr K's more trad’ pub across the road, where decibels escalate from diners' voices alone when service is in full swing. Booking in advance and deciding what cuisine we might fancy months ahead has prompted us to abandon H & F where we had been dining for years, often as walk-ins. So already being familiar with the food there, I was thrilled to find that the compact and cosy 'Coach has plenty of food appeal and a concise choice of wine, all available by the glass. Centre stage is the bar where you can eat and see the open rotisserie, but we quickly settled into a comfortable leather banquette, him supping beer and me a delicious English white called Limney which delivered exactly the flavours I had asked the female head waitress for, whilst we eagerly awaited our food. I skipped starter but forced (I lie) to sample the chicken confit terrine; in a word : divine. All plates are small even the roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, which importantly we were told to expect, so we ordered plenty of sides. In excitement I went a bit off-piste being unable to resist the potato boulangere cooked in meat juices, which wouldn’t have sat comfortably with my delicate plaice with shrimps and cavolo nero. Having finished my fish I tucked into the rich, wonderfully wintry flavoured boulangere with some hispy cabbage and celeriac which was vying for attention having been spit roast then drenched in truffle – lush as Mr K would say. The roast beef looked incredibly tender and soon disappeared, apparently leaving enough space for a dessert of whisky and rye, a type of rye flour cake soaked in alcohol with a blob of cream which didn’t quite deliver. Oddly, I ordered more potato in the form of fat chips with bernaise sauce, which even the cochon in me failed to finish. All done for £100 including water, beer and 5 glasses of wine. On my wish list for next time is an eye-catching chilli dish of Venison with Toasted Rice Cream, Red Wine and Chocolate, so we soon need to catch The Coach before ridiculous queues start forming.
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01628 483013 01628 483013

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