Tom Kerridge’s influence on modern pub dining is hard to overstate. From a clutch of successful pubs, including The Hand & Flowers (the UK’s only two Michelin-starred pub), to TV appearances and cook-at-home collaborations, what underpins it all is a reassuring lack of ego.
The Coach sits neatly within that trend. It feels rooted, confident and deliberately local. It also happens to offer the UK’s cheapest Michelin-starred set menu at £15. Inside, the look is classy pub chic: worn leather banquettes, green tiling, dark wood, soft lighting. After ten years in operation, The Coach is only just beginning to show its age, though only in that endearing old boozer kind of way. It hasn’t lost its lustre. On a Saturday lunchtime, families are settling in for the long haul, couples tuck themselves into corners, and small groups chat over pints and puddings.
The best seats, however, are at the pewter counter overlooking the kitchen. From here, The Coach classics stream out at a steady clip. A smoked haddock Scotch egg is technically faultless, with delicately smoked fish, a perfectly jammy yolk and a thin, crisp breadcrumb crust, all set atop a glossy parsley sauce. Mussels marinière follow, submerged in a rich cream sauce, finished with warm stout and matched with nutty brown bread for proper dunking.
Chicken Kyiv is indulgent and properly juicy, while much-lauded hand-cut chips earn their reputation. Best of all is a beautifully flaky piece of hake, resting on a slick, gently spiced sauce, with shaved fennel to neatly cut through the richness.
Dessert is more playful. A toffee apple is reimagined as a glazed choux bun, filled with apple and custard, scented with roast vanilla and drenched in Calvados caramel. It is nostalgic, clever and extremely satisfying.
The appeal is obvious. The food is generous, unfussy and consistently well judged. Service is brisk, cheerful and unpretentious, reinforcing the sense that for many affluent Marlow residents, this really is their local. More importantly, the room feels happy. Staff smile easily, the kitchen chats, and the whole place ticks along with an easy familiarity. Nothing showy, nothing strained, just very good food, done properly.