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After a long hiatus, Geronimo Inns' owners Rupert and Jo Clevely have returned to their roots, back in the premises that provided a springboard for their ever-growing, London-based empire. In
surroundings that reflect the couple’s busy designer take on ‘trad boozer’ (more Daily Mail than Dazed & Confused), fans will find decent pints from Sambrook’s, Sharps or operating partners
Young’s, as well as a savvy selection of crowd-pleasing wines selected by another of the Clevely clan, sommelier John. Food features fair-value, blue-collar staples (chicken and leek pie, fish and
chips), served with modish flair alongside the sort of thing one might whip up from a Sunday supplement recipe – wild mushrooms on toast with poached duck egg, beetroot and broad bean risotto or
roast salmon with an oyster fritter, pea shoots and roast shallots, followed by Eton Mess.
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