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Originally the springboard for Rupert and Jo Clevely’s Geronimo Inns empire, this revamped Fulham boozer is back in their hands after a long hiatus. The interior reflects the group’s “home-from-home” designer take on the traditional boozer (think Daily Mail rather than Dazed & Confused), while drinks run from big-name real ales to a savvy selection of crowd-pleasing wines selected by sommelier John Clevely MW. As for the food, expect plenty of fair-value, blue-collar staples (salmon fishcakes, venison sausages and mash), served with modish flair alongside the sort of thing one might whip up from a Sunday supplement recipe – think beetroot and goats’ cheese tart, warm baby squid with olives, chorizo and aubergine caviar or rabbit, borlotti bean and tarragon ragù, followed by slow-baked plum, honey and oat crumble. “Full of locals in red trousers and Barbours”, observed one reader.
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