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Once part of the Olive Branch chain, this all-purpose restaurant is attractively done out with lots of wrought ironwork, dangling metal lampshades, patterned wallpaper and varnished wood surfaces. The kitchen delivers a mix of pan-European dishes with a few Scottish accents here and there, plus a decent showing of native produce in dishes such as smoked haddock and spring pea tart, ham ‘hough’ and Mull of Kintyre Cheddar cake or grilled venison steak with roast baby potatoes, braised red cabbage and warm beetroot chutney. Also look for faraway flavours including Shetland mussels in coconut, lime leaf and chilli broth or rump of lamb with bulgur wheat and minted yoghurt dressing. To drink, there’s a decent choice of Scottish-brewed Stewart’s beers and international wines, but you can BYO too. Also ask about their regular chocolate workshops.
The Cellar Door has always been a source of considerable intrigue, for me. It’s a place of which I have read much, but I’ve never firmly captured it in my line of sight.InteriorOn the legendarily hard to master final Sunday of the Fringe, I found myself in the neighbourhood, fixed it in my tractor-beam glare and moved in for the kill. Regular irregular quester, Nadine, and I were pretty lucky to sneak in without a reservation.The menu offers a good range of options, the most noteworthy of which is the “surprise menu”, featuring two courses for £17.95 and three for £20.95. On another night,...
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