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What’s in a name? Well, quite a lot at this address: formerly Greek skewer restaurant 21 Bateman Street. The owners decided to close that establishment and transform the decor, yet leave the menu largely intact and reopen as Suvlaki. The tiny interior couldn’t look more different; it’s now a striking combination of dark-blue walls, concrete Athenian-style pillars, suspended bare light bulbs and ugly graffiti. Extra covers have also been squeezed in – claustrophobics beware. Fortunately, the great food hasn’t changed. Soft pork souvlaki wraps are the highlight, stuffed with charcoal-grilled flesh and drizzled with tangy tzatziki. Baked feta comes foil-wrapped to retain its deliciously piquant juices; oregano-sprinkled chips make a perfectly crisp accompaniment; and the ‘exuberance’ sharing menu is great value, especially for Soho. With pitta bread, wild-boar sausage, wines and beers all imported from Greece, Suvlaki is big on air miles, atmosphere and flavour, but exceedingly small on elbow room.
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