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Square Meal Review of Sumosan ?

This Russian-owned Japanese is a very 21st-century phenomenon, smartly neutral in a noughties sort of way and with a client base largely comprised of wealthy expats. Its melting-pot character also results in distinctively assured cooking with a premium on flavour and quality but scant regard for authenticity – apart from a proper respect for traditional sushi and sashimi. We always order the fragrant T&T (tuna and truffle) roll, a crunchy salmon-topped rice ‘pizza’, a zippy salad (the lobster riff dressed with shiso sauce is a favourite) and the lamb furikaki (juicy cutlets coated in a crust of sesame, seaweed, salmon skin, almond and spices). Modern classics such as rock-shrimp tempura and black cod are also well handled. But while there’s no faulting the food, staff can be inattentive and noise levels uncomfortable – especially when the late-night party atmosphere gets into full swing.   


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  1. Sumosan has been discreet on the down low since until recently. Opened by the Wolkow family, it first launched in 1997 in Moscow. Loved by A-list celebrities, they vowed to deliver the best freshest sushi in London.

    I was invited down to master sushi making; Bubker Belkhit flew all the way from Moscow to join us for the evening. I was the one he feared the most firing questions and being the most knowledgeable sushi expert in the room. Did you know the ginger that is served with your sushi is the palette cleanser and that nigiri you dipped the fish side into your soy sauce...
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Jbar 32

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