From the same mini stable as Sukho, this neighbourhood eatery is still something of a find and a haunt worth knowing, according to local fans. Inside, Thai artefacts, bare tables and carved deities provide the trappings in a tidy, if unexceptional space, but it’s the cooking that really warrants attention here. Regional dishes such as mieng bhed (roasted duck fillet wrapped in rice paper with herbs) and pla yang (sea bass in red chilli paste served in a banana leaf) overshadow the more predictable satays, spring rolls, stir-fries and pad thais, while fans of green and red curries will find their favourites pimped up beyond the usual standard; hot-and-sour salads and classic tom yum soups also get a jazzy makeover. Be prepared for a wait at peak times.