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Opened in 1990, Stac Polly has built up a reputation as one of the leading purveyors of Scottish produce in Edinburgh. It enjoys added historical cred by occupying a bona fide Georgian basement of
interlinked rooms, with elegant tableware and tasteful prints offsetting the below-stairs frisson of bare stone walls. The dinner menu takes a larder full of sound native ingredients and poshes
them up to give la cuisine française a run for its euro. Three typical courses might travel from smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade with wasabi and saffron mayo, via Aberdeen Angus
rib-eye with fondant potato, black pudding, wild mushrooms, fine beans and whisky jus to lemon cheesecake with blackcurrant ice cream and red fruit coulis. The approach is hardly new, but the
overall experience should appeal to tourists as well as traditionalists.
It was shortly after we visited the branch of Stac Polly on St Mary’s Street that their Dublin Street branch re-launched as a bistro and gin bar. I’d meant to visit shortly after that, but it ended up taking me rather longer than planned. On a dreich and sleety day I finally popped in for lunch.A stylish New Town set of rooms, the place has a beautiful fireplace and elegant ceiling roses. It’s really rather smart...
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