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Square Meal Review of Spring ?

Following her 2012 departure from Petersham Nurseries, Skye Gyngell has brought her singular culinary style to the grand setting of Somerset House. Spring boasts a pretty ‘indoor garden’ and airy dining room, softly decorated in neutral shades. Attentive staff, knowledgeably versed in the seasonal menu, resemble Breton fishermen in their pastel stripes and turn-ups. Simply treated produce – a highlight at Petersham – continues to shine, with dishes showing a hallmark balance of flavours and deftness of touch. Perfectly al dente ravioli of potato and earthy porcini arrives glistening with sage butter, while sweet Dorset crab is served with polenta, enlivened by purple basil and chilli oil. Fish main courses stand out, witness a savoury autumnal dish of meaty turbot with girolles and chanterelles, balanced by a zesty lemon salmoriglio sauce. Pretty desserts such as meringue with citrusy miyagawa sorbet and candied ginger show the same attention to detail, as do the well-chosen wines. “Skye is back. This is perfect!” declares one happy reader.
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  1. The architecture of Somerset House is majestic and heavy, with its rather hefty air of hard work and gravity still redolent of the government offices it used to accommodate. But march through the entrance and turn right and along the frowning edifices, and you will find yourself in Spring – and an atmosphere so utterly opposite it might make you gasp.

    Airy, high-ceilinged and painted in pastel shades of green and blue, the dining room really is spring-like in feel...
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Private Dining at Spring


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Garden Atrium 24

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Skye Gyngell

Skye Gygnell, calls herself a ‘cook’ not a ‘chef’, but the unassuming fiftysomething Aussie – daughter of millionaire TV executive Bruce Gyngell – landed the one they all wanted: the vast restaurant space at Somerset House’s New Wing. Spring, opened in autumn 2014, shows off the former Vogue food editor’s bold seasonal cooking in a strikingly grand space – nothing like the bucolic setting of Richmond’s Petersham Nurseries, where she cooked for seven years.

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