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Leicester Square ain’t the Meatpacking District, which perhaps explains why Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Spice Market outpost has never had the impact of the New York original. The dramatic first-floor restaurant and matching ground-floor bar with their black lacquer, brass ‘wok’ lights and filigree screens may evoke
Sex and the City – though the less said about
the staff’s ‘jailhouse orange’ uniforms the better. The sweeping pan-Asian menu travels from India to Japan and the sharing concept generally works, even if some dishes fall flat: our lobster summer rolls were drowned out by sriracha emulsion and the mango salad was overloaded with iceberg lettuce, although a spicy Thai short-rib burger and fried soft-shell crab with crispy steamed buns were both excellent.
Big ticks also awarded for the considerate service, lush cocktails, bargain bento boxes
and the new sushi bar.
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