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Critic Giles Coren’s unexpected post-cricket lunch back in 2009 not only turned this unassuming Chinese restaurant into a local phenomenon, it is still a major talking point when it comes to the
waiters’ conversational repertoire; needless to say, a copy of the review proudly decorates the customarily black-lacquered room. Fortunately, Sojo lives up to its not inconsiderable hype. The
cooking is consistently impressive and spans three regions of China from Cantonese dim sum (glutinous chicken rice, crystal prawn dumplings, pork sui mai etc), via Shanghai-influenced dishes along
the lines of braised beef brisket in five-spice to fiery Szechuan lamb in chilli sauce or spicy aubergines with minced pork. Crowd-pleasers such as Thai curry or sweet-and-sour chicken seem
somewhat out of place here, but slick, friendly service ensures that nothing grates.
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