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Square Meal Review of The Seafood Restaurant Padstow ?

This is where it all began for Cornish empire builder Rick Stein, but 40 years down the line, his illustrious flagship still delivers “seafood heaven on a plate” – without too much pomp or “overly stuffy” posturing. Quality is the watchword here: the spacious white-walled interior – designed by Jill Stein – is bright, modern and artily decorated with a no-bookings cut-price seafood bar at its heart, while the kitchen majors on exemplary fish cookery driven by daily supplies from nearby Padstow quay. Flavours from Stein’s travels dominate the show, so start with some local Porthilly oysters, cruise your way through monkfish ceviche with pomegranate and smoked chilli, black risotto with cuttlefish and Chettinad gurnard masala curry or keep it classic with roast tronçon of turbot and hollandaise sauce. Otherwise, get “gloriously messy” with a plate of fruits de mer or stir-fried Singapore chilli crab, before rounding off with rhubarb mille-feuille or hot chocolate fondant, coffee ice cream and Baileys sauce. Fish-friendly whites naturally dominate the auspicious wine list and the waterfront location is a dream – especially if you’re staying over.

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Rick Stein

Rick Stein’s route to fame and fortune has been circuitous. Having flunked his ‘A’ levels, he travelled the world after his father’s suicide, returning to read English at Oxford. Later, he moved to Padstow in north Cornwall where he opened a nightclub that eventually became The Seafood Restaurant. Since 1975, Stein has added a cookery school, bistro, café and chippy to his ‘Padstein’ empire, written 19 cookery books and made 25 TV shows.

Essential Details for The Seafood Restaurant Padstow

  • Cuisine: Fish
  • Area: Cornwall
  • Price: £82
  • Wine: £21.95
  • Champagne: £45.25

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