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Squaremeal Review of Salloos ?

Set up by Muhammed Salahuddin (aka ‘Salloo’) in 1976, this discreet bastion of refined Pakistani cooking is as “classy and classic as you can get” – no wonder it attracts a loyal mix of genteel Belgravia locals, long-pocketed tourists and well-behaved diplomats from the nearby French Embassy. Salloos won’t win any prizes for originality or innovation, but it’s “reliable, grown-up and familiar”, pleasing the crowds with smart dishes based on recipes from the home country. Go for signature plates of chicken kofte, stir-fried kidneys and haleem akbari (shredded lamb with wheatgerm and lentils), share the spoils from a slow-roasted leg of lamb (raan masala) or home in on the justly famous tandooris – especially the ever-popular marinated lamb chops. There’s a touch of sultry glamour about the first-floor dining room with its lattice screens, crystal chandeliers and decorative silks, while two bars keep everyone suitably lubricated.

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