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Despite the burnished golden walls, black and gold seat covers and opulent swooshes all over the menu, we reckon that the 200-seater flagship of the Royal China group is starting to look a bit tired – although it still has more personality that some outlying branches of the chain. Expect queues for daytime dim sum at the weekends, when the seasonal menu encompasses deep-fried minced squid balls, prawn dumplings with coriander, chicken’s feet in Chinese rice wine, stuffed beancurd rolls and best-selling roast pork buns. In the evening (from 6pm), a hefty carte focuses on signature barbecued meats and crispy duck alongside competently rendered Cantonese standards including lemon chicken, stir-fried Dover sole with spicy salt, sautéed beer with oyster sauce and peasant-style hotpots (stewed pork belly with preserved cabbage, for example). A favourite for big parties.
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