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Square Meal Review of Rowleys ?

This stylish brasserie in picture-perfect Baslow is part of Max and Susan Fischer’s sophisticated stable (their Michelin-starred Fischer’s at Baslow Hall is just a stone’s throw away). Rowleys’ modern interior is slightly incongruous given that it’s housed in a solid, stone-built former village pub, but warm service makes up for an overdose of zeitgeist glass, ‘sculptural’ flower arrangements and lime-green leather furniture. The short, relaxed menu is an appealing read, and the kitchen doesn’t try to be too ‘cheffy’: rabbit terrine with homemade chutney or smoked haddock risotto might give way to herb-crusted saddle of Derbyshire lamb, braised ox cheek or fillet of bream with saffron potatoes and coriander dressing. To finish, don’t miss the gooey rum-and-raisin chocolate pot. Working lunches, afternoon teas, fish and chips on Friday and social drinks in the all-day bar keep it honest with the locals.

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