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Square Meal Review of Roots at N1 ?

Way before the little espresso cup of spicy pumpkin soup arrives as an elegant amuse-bouche, it’s evident that this Barnsbury newcomer is a cut above your average curry house. The former pub premises have been stylishly made over, with sleek beaten-copper lamps hanging above the large windows. The chef, who has spent time at Atul Kochhar’s Benares in Mayfair, has put together a concise menu showcasing refined cooking. Dishes are beautifully presented & delicately spiced – perhaps fennel & peppered squid with crunchy pickled cabbage; Kentish lamb chops with a zingy mint chutney; or seared sea bass with soft curried squash & a creamy coconut sauce. Prices are pleasing for such a polished experience, & service is unfailingly hospitable: complete with recommendations for tricky wine/curry matching.


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