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Roma is heavy. The furnishings are heavy (wintery mustards, golds, velvet and mosaic-inspired artwork), the theme is heavy (ancient Rome), and the food is pretty heavy too. This City restaurant takes its cue from the Roman fort that once stood in the area, and presents a menu ‘researched from Apicius’, a Roman recipe book. Our salumi wouldn’t have missed its doorstops of powdery bread, and hare and pistachio terrine was mighty sturdy. A speciality is mains cooked in hay (vine-wrapped tuna, leg of lamb). The promised ‘earth taste’ wasn’t apparent in our crispy pork belly – moist, but so dense the tasty accompanying borlotti-bean, ham and tomato casserole felt too rich a partner. However, we enjoyed meaty mussels and clams, while apricot and ratafia cake came with beautifully light rose-water crème anglaise. Toast the ancient empire with wines hailing from former Roman territories, or smoked Negronis from the interesting cocktail list – though whether you fancy your post-work drink while staring into the office opposite is your choice.
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