River Cottage Canteen & Deli Plymouth

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Square Meal Review of River Cottage Canteen & Deli Plymouth ?

The arrival of the River Cottage Canteen & Deli has added some extra zing to Plymouth’s upwardly mobile Royal William Yard (once a naval ‘victualling depot’). Occupying a former brewhouse, flanked by the water, it looks fashionably bare – think high ceilings, metal light fittings, exposed pipes & lots of reclaimed wood, with a long bar-cum-deli counter, & a wood-fired oven taking pride of place in the open kitchen. Breakfast might bring mushrooms on toast, all-day snacks feature the now-ubiquitous Scotch eggs, & the full inventory could embrace fat Cornish mussels with cider, leeks & bacon, tender citrus-braised lamb with creamy potato & celeriac mash, & a rustic apple, pear & walnut crumble for dessert. It’s deceptively simple cooking with a welcome emphasis on flavour & regional sourcing, while drinks include Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s own Stinger ale & nine different ciders.

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Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

A familiar face from TV for his River Cottage series, old Etonian and Oxford graduate Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is the country’s poster boy for ethical, seasonal eating. He did a short stint at the River Café before moving into journalism and eventually broadcasting. His River Cottage HQ, established in 2004 and now based at Park Farm in Devon, is home to a canteen and cookery school. Further canteens are located in Bristol, Winchester and Plymouth.

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