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The arrival of the River Cottage Canteen & Deli has added some extra zing to Plymouth’s upwardly mobile Royal William Yard (once a naval ‘victualling depot’). Occupying a former brewhouse,
flanked by the water, it looks fashionably bare – think high ceilings, metal light fittings, exposed pipes & lots of reclaimed wood, with a long bar-cum-deli counter, & a wood-fired oven
taking pride of place in the open kitchen. Breakfast might bring mushrooms on toast, all-day snacks feature the now-ubiquitous Scotch eggs, & the full inventory could embrace fat Cornish
mussels with cider, leeks & bacon, tender citrus-braised lamb with creamy potato & celeriac mash, & a rustic apple, pear & walnut crumble for dessert. It’s deceptively simple
cooking with a welcome emphasis on flavour & regional sourcing, while drinks include Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s own Stinger ale & nine different ciders.
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