Restaurant Nathan Outlaw 333

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Square Meal Review of Restaurant Nathan Outlaw ?

Two-Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw has upped sticks and moved his flagship from the St Enodoc Hotel in Rock to new premises in Port Isaac, a ploy that has provided him with “further motivation for his enormous talent”. His sparkling food still revolves around regular supplies of sustainable fish from the Cornish day boats and punters can sample the results in a daily eight-course tasting menu (there’s also a more modest set lunch). Rave reviews of individual dishes abound, from rosemary-cured monkfish with dazzling saffron yoghurt and smoked almonds to “exquisite” sole paired with cauliflower purée, crispy oyster and wild garlic. Elsewhere, turbot is cooked to perfection and red mullet is combined with a signature Porthilly lobster sauce that would “make a fortune if it were marketed”. Also expect a supporting cast of seasonal vegetables, regional cheeses and top-drawer desserts – perhaps a stunningly imaginative pairing of rhubarb and juniper crème brûlée with blood orange granita. Outlaw’s “beautifully directed visual displays” are backed by perfectly matched wines and service that strikes just the right balance between sociability and expertise. Readers confirm that the result is a “tour de force by a great chef” – although we’d

interior photography ©Rob Whitrow

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Wine List of the Year Award Finalist

There’s something of the Hakkasan in the way this British eatery has structured its list, with wines split up into intriguing (but generally helpful) categories such as ‘Sea and Ocean’ and ‘Aromatics’. Plus it’s easy to follow, beautifully presented and isn’t afraid to big up its weirder listings, like Georgian amphorae wines.


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Nathan Outlaw

Chef’s son Nathan Outlaw may hail from Kent, but he has a Cornish empire to rival Rick Stein’s. Having worked for Stein in Padstow and later with John Campbell, the seafood specialist settled at the St Enodoc Hotel – although he is moving his flagship Restaurant Nathan Outlaw to Port Isaac in 2015. Other projects include Outlaw’s at the Capital in London, Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen (also in Port Isaac), and The Mariner’s pub in Rock.

Essential Details for Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

  • Cuisine: Fish
  • Area: Cornwall
  • Price: £99
  • Wine: £20.00
  • Champagne: £74

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