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Two-Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw has upped sticks and moved his flagship from the St Enodoc Hotel in Rock to new premises in Port Isaac, a ploy that has provided him with “further motivation for his enormous talent”. His sparkling food still revolves around regular supplies of sustainable fish from the Cornish day boats and punters can sample the results in a daily eight-course tasting menu (there’s also a more modest set lunch). Rave reviews of individual dishes abound, from rosemary-cured monkfish with dazzling saffron yoghurt and smoked almonds to “exquisite” sole paired with cauliflower purée, crispy oyster and wild garlic. Elsewhere, turbot is cooked to perfection and red mullet is combined with a signature Porthilly lobster sauce that would “make a fortune if it were marketed”. Also expect a supporting cast of seasonal vegetables, regional cheeses and top-drawer desserts – perhaps a stunningly imaginative pairing of rhubarb and juniper crème brûlée with blood orange granita. Outlaw’s “beautifully directed visual displays” are backed by perfectly matched wines and service that strikes just the right balance between sociability and expertise. Readers confirm that the result is a “tour de force by a great chef” – although we’d
interior photography ©Rob Whitrow
Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2015 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in May and June 2015. Thousands of readers and bloggers took part and the results were moderated by the Square Meal editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The survey does not ask for or include any restaurants in London. Click here for a full list of Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.
There’s something of the Hakkasan in the way this British eatery has structured its list, with wines split up into intriguing (but generally helpful) categories such as ‘Sea and Ocean’ and ‘Aromatics’. Plus it’s easy to follow, beautifully presented and isn’t afraid to big up its weirder listings, like Georgian amphorae wines.
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