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Daniel Smith made his name cooking at The Wildebeest Arms outside Norwich, before upping sticks and taking over
this tidy-looking village boozer – a 14th-century thatched inn moored on the outer fringes of the Norfolk Broads. Centuries old timbers, inglenook fireplaces and local ales from Woodforde’s Brewery
reinforce the pubby vibe, but the kitchen eschews pies and burgers in favour of smart contemporary dishes with an Anglo-European slant. Caramelised onion and Cashel Blue cheese tartlets with
serrano ham and wild rocket might precede grilled local sea bass with baby leeks, courgettes, asparagus, cocotte potatoes and sauce vierge or Dijon-crusted lamb rump with char-grilled aubergine,
courgette fritter and olive jus. For afters, dark chocolate nemesis with blood orange ice cream gives the nod to London’s River Café. Dishes are matched by admirable suggestions from the upbeat, thoroughly cosmopolitan wine list.
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