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One of the first eateries to bring South Indian & Keralan food to the capital, Ragam still plies its trade in the shadow of the Post Office Tower. The pokey, box-like dining room hasn’t changed
in 30 years, but people don’t flock here for the paper-clothed refectory tables or the living-room wallpaper: instead, great-value food & beguilingly laid-back service are the main attractions.
The kitchen dishes up a contingent of distinctively spiced staples – dhansaks, kormas, biryanis & suchlike – but it’s worth homing in on the regional specialities for something more
invigorating. Browse the well-worn, laminated menu for paper dosas with sambar, uthappam (South Indian ‘pizzas’), vadai (lentil doughnuts), potent curries made with fish or mutton, & veggie
dishes involving mangoes, green bananas, gourds & long beans. Drink lassi or lager.
The sole reason I know about Ragam is because I follow Ben Goldacre on Twitter and about 3 years ago he raved about it. He’s a pretty sensible, logical guy – always tweeting about evidence – and so I considered him trustworthy even on food. I was right to do so.Stephen had been doing PescaJanuary (no meat, fish allowed) and we decided to celebrate him rejoining the carnivorous fold by going for a curry with a few friends. Having a few of us gave the perfect excuse to have a smorgasbord of starters before getting a main dish each. Some of these weren’t the easiest thing to share but we just about managed...
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