One of the first eateries to bring South Indian & Keralan food to the capital, Ragam still plies its trade in the shadow of the Post Office Tower. The pokey, box-like dining room hasn’t changed in 30 years, but people don’t flock here for the paper-clothed refectory tables or the living-room wallpaper: instead, great-value food & beguilingly laid-back service are the main attractions. The kitchen dishes up a contingent of distinctively spiced staples – dhansaks, kormas, biryanis & suchlike – but it’s worth homing in on the regional specialities for something more invigorating. Browse the well-worn, laminated menu for paper dosas with sambar, uthappam (South Indian ‘pizzas’), vadai (lentil doughnuts), potent curries made with fish or mutton, & veggie dishes involving mangoes, green bananas, gourds & long beans. Drink lassi or lager.