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Squaremeal Review of Purl ?

Be prepared to get down and dirty, for that's the unavoidable outcome of ordering a Mariposa at this shamelessly hip basement joint – said cocktail arrives on a slate in an icy sugar-dusted glass with a mound of Nutella 'soil' on the side. Dark corners, retro furniture and bluesy/jazzy music seduce those seeking the molecular end of the cocktail spectrum, where the 'set menu' brings three drinks with extra treats – perhaps aubergine tartare and an alcoholic pomegranate drop with Coy Daddy (Chivas 12-year-old, Bénédictine and mango-flavoured sparkling wine). Coffee and chocolate fog adds some Victorian drama to the Bacardi-based Mr Hyde, and if you fancy something straight-up, explore the whisky range. Food is done with style – hot dogs, deli boards, a cup packed with sausage rolls.

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