Princess of Shoreditch

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Square Meal Review of Princess of Shoreditch ?

Despite being a stately boozer some 270 years old, The Princess has a kitchen throbbing with energy. The lively ground-floor bar provides three oft-changing ales and a menu of modish snacks – Padrón peppers, lamb fritters – as well as more substantial meals, while the upstairs restaurant (booking recommended) offers sedate surroundings and a pastel-grey colour scheme. Smokehouse frontman Neil Rankin (executive chef for this Noble Inns group member) has produced a well-sourced, seasonally astute British menu, so in winter hearty Cullen skink (a dense Scottish soup of smoked haddock, potato and onions) is just the ticket. Roast duck breast with duck ragu might follow, or a sweet pairing of smoked ham hock with lobster. On Sundays the kitchen roasts poussin, pork, Kentish lamb and Charles Ashbridge beef. Desserts such as ginger crème brûlée rise to the gastro occasion, and wines of the month make chosen bottles on the well-selected list more affordable.

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