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Square Meal Review of Princess of Shoreditch ?

Dating from the mid-18th century, this regal-sounding boozer attracts hipsters and City slickers alike thanks to its unpretentious vibe, buzzy bar and upbeat cooking. Three regularly rotated real ales please drinkers in the pubby ground floor, while trussed-up classics including beef tartare, shepherd's pie and glazed pig's cheeks are just the ticket for a quick nosh. However, it's worth booking ahead for something more sophisticated in the muted upstairs dining room, where the food shows a real dedication to well-sourced, seasonal British produce – think charcoal-roasted cauliflower with dandelion and grape vinegar, Hampshire pork belly with smoked apple and celeriac or pollack fillet in clam juices with salted citrus fruits and samphire. Pudding might bring blood-orange and coffee Bakewell tart, while Sundays see a choice of roasts. With all bases covered, it's no surprise that locals doff their caps to this old girl.

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