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Author and foodie go-getter Philip Dundas created PipsDish as a garage pop-up in Islington before going permanent. This new venture is more ambitious than its Hoxton predecessor, although it’s a quirky world away from Covent Garden’s slick chains and old pros such as Joe Allen next door. The dining room has been kitted out with a “memory lane jumble” of movie posters, photos and a Narnia-esque wardrobe, and the cooking struck us as equally chaotic, with some poorly judged flavours and sloppy presentation – although others have fared better, praising the smoky ham hock terrine with sweet onion chutney and an aromatic “soupy” goose curry with chickpeas. There’s no menu, so you eat whatever Dundas is cooking that day – perhaps lemon chicken with fennel or oxtail with preserved bergamot. No reservations, though you can book for theatre suppers and Saturday brunch.
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