Pinche Pinche

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There’s been a Latin American restaurant here for a number of years, but it didn’t light any fires, so owner Simon Heath took himself off to Mexico on a ‘research’ trip and returned a year later with an entirely new menu. In a clever move he also recruited a chef from Cancun with a talent for knocking up Tex-Mex classics: fajitas, quesadillas and enchiladas, burritos and chimichangas sit alongside antojitos and tlacoyos (torpedo-shaped corn dough cakes) – street-food staples designed to be eaten with your hands. Star of the show is mole chicken enchiladas, a dish found typically in Mexico City, and you could say it sums up the style here: made with 15 different kinds of chilli, nuts and pure chocolate it sets off sensory and gustatory fireworks with its depth of flavour and extraordinary textures. It’s as authentic as you’re likely to get in the UK – and Pinche Pinche’s bartenders shake a mean margarita too.

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