Peckham Bazaar 22

PECKHAM BAZAAR
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Squaremeal Review of Peckham Bazaar ?

If you believe there aren’t many ingredients that can’t be improved by a spell over charcoal, then make a beeline for this simple Balkans bistro on a residential street close to Peckham’s main drag. At the huge, gleaming grill you’ll find Albanian chef-owner John Gionleka, whose weekly changing menu draws inspiration from across the mountainous Balkans region, with occasional forays into the Middle East (PB’s sourdough is served with fruity olive oil and a peppy za’atar). The smoky heat adds a pleasing char to a starter of octopus, served here with pearl onions (their sugars cooked to a caramel intensity over the coals). Mains vary from humble lamb Adana kebabs with cracked wheat, to red-leg partridge with Muscat grapes and girolles. The fascinating wine list – where New Zealand Sauvignons and Chilean Merlots are pleasing by their absence – takes an oenological tour of Greece and Bulgaria, via Croatia and Hungary.

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  1. Published :

    The Picky Glutton :: Peckham Bazaar review | oddball Eastern European takes over old pub | The Picky Glutton

    It’s sort of like Turkish food, but even more fun

    Thanks to UKIP and the generally nasty tone of British politics in recent years, ‘Eastern European’ has become a loaded phrase. Our new neighbours have nevertheless been slowly making their impact on London’s dining scene. ‘Eastern European’ food doesn’t have the greatest reputation though and that nebulous phrase obscures numerous, differing cuisines. Peckham Bazaar concentrates on dishes from the Balkans and Greece, which have a Turkish influence due to their shared history with the Ottoman Empire, but updated and modernised to surprisingly delicious effect.

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