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Square Meal Review of One Leicester Street ?

The short-lived St John Hotel has resurfaced in a different guise, with chef Tom Harris staying on as a partner alongside the venue’s new Asian backers. Together they have added some much-needed warmth to the dining room, while Harris has overhauled his ‘inventive, offbeat’ menu to suit the new-look premises. Underdog British ingredients still rule the roost (smoked cod roe with devilled pig skin, anyone?), and the kitchen delivers precise seasonal dishes ranging from cuttlefish with cannellini beans and mint or an expert pairing of caramelised onions and goats’ curd to lamb’s sweetbreads with trotter and carrots. By contrast, fancy presentation is a feature of desserts, such as an arty ‘crumbling’ assemblage of salt caramel, apple and hazelnut. The wine list goes that extra mile, prices remain accessible, and spirited service chimes with the happy, confident mood.

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  1. Before its time, One Leicester Street used to be occupied by St John hotel, there’s bar on the other floor, but it was the restaurant I visited. I was greeted by staff immaculate dressed in their uniforms.

    They were very knowledge with answering my questions over the menu; Tom Harris is still head chef for the restaurant. For starters I had to get my favourite oysters, rock oysters are the only ones available...
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  1. Published : Monday, 17 June 2013

    Samphire and Salsify :: One Leicester Street

    I was shocked to hear that the St.John Hotel had gone into administration; on our visit the place was positively packed and the food on offer was great. I wasn’t totally convinced that it was deserving of its first Michelin star quite so soon after opening however. Either way, sadly the St.John Hotel is no more but the head chef has stayed on and runs the kitchen of the new restaurant; One Leicester Street...
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  1. It is impossible for me to talk about One Leicester Street without bringing up St. John Hotel, not least because the latter have been a firm favourite and none mourned its demise more so than I did. But all is not lost as it was soon announced that the troubled establishment was bought over by the team behind the successful Viajante and Corner Room, my other go-to restaurant. And just like that, a few months after the closing of St John Hotel, a brand spangling new phoenix rises from the yet-to-settled ashes, and what a fine beautiful bird this turned out to be...
    More from [FEAST to the world] »

  1. Published : Thursday, 15 August 2013

    Munch My Way :: One Leicester Street, Leicester Sq.

    Having seen Anthony Bourdain’s Layover series on the train back from
    Bristol, I wanted to try the place he came for breakfast. One Leicester Sq offers a simple breakfast menu…
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  1. If we told you the invite said something along the lines of ‘come to a hotel restaurant, stand at the pass and listen to a bloke talk about pickles’, then you’d probably think meh! Whatever! BUT and this is a big but, hence the capital letters. If we told you the hotel is One Leicester Street (formally St John) and the pass at which we stood belonged to Michelin-starred chef Tom Harris and these were his pickles and preserves, then you’ll understand why we jumped at the chance to go.

    This wasn’t the half of it, before we ate we were treated to a couple of ‘libations’ or liquid offerings at the Talented Mr...
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