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Destined to be the first in a collection that will bring a fresh approach to the high street, British brasserie Mustard is the brainchild of Lawrence Hartley and Tim Healy – owners of Joe Allen in Covent Garden – and chef Jason Wild. The kitchen shows admirable commitment to local ingredients and seasonal produce, with a changing set menu offering excellent value. A starter of grilled asparagus, soft-boiled egg and Sussex Charmer cheese from the specials was attractive and well-balanced, while a main of tender new-season lamb hotpot with baby turnips, peas and broad beans was light and spring-like. We also relished a hearty plate of slow-cooked Gloucester Old Spot ham with peas, cream and herbs: intensely savoury, deeply comforting. Puddings showcase simple ingredients: warm rhubarb crumble was spiked with aromatic caraway seeds; a sweet-yet-sharp red berry sorbet arrived topped with seasonal fruits. With its buzzy atmosphere, straightforward yet classy decor, and confident, laid-back service, Mustard feels like the local brasserie every neighbourhood should have.
It’s not often I hang out in West London, and I could probably count on one hand, the number of times I’ve been to Shepherd’s Bush. I’d hazard a guess it was to visit the Hammersmith Apollo or Westfield Shopping Centre. Otherwise, SheBu – as the cool kids call it – is just not on my radar.But an invitation to review the new Mustard restaurant in Brook Green – about half way between Hammersmith and Shepherd’s Bush tube stations
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Mustard is not only one of my favourite condiments (Dijon to be precise), but it’s also the namesake of a modern British brasserie in Brook Green. We visit on a Thursday evening, which is generally a busy part of the week for dining, yet the place is near empty. It’s nicely furnished, warm and inviting with a few tables outside if you fancy a spot of alfresco dining so at first glance it’s hard to see why the place is so quiet. Does the food ‘cut the mustard?’ Why yes, it’s bistro-style British cooking done well.
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