Morden & Lea

Morden & Lea restaurant bar London Soho
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Squaremeal Review of Morden & Lea ?

Morden & Lea closed on 06/16

"An unexpected find", this pleasing modern brasserie from Mark Sargeant (of Plum + Spilt Milk fame) is named after cartographers Robert Morden and Philip Lea, who mapped out Soho in the 17th century. There's a surprisingly large ground-floor space, with booths and benches beckoning those in search of British tapas. On the first floor is a plusher, brighter room with beige leather banquettes, splashes of powder blue and a menu that makes much of English provenance: luscious peach is the perfect match for soft Goosnargh duck breast, Dingley Dell pork loin is tweaked with pickled vegetables, while Romney Marsh lamb combines superbly cooked, aromatic flesh with crispy breast, glazed potatoes and juicy mushrooms. A subtly sweet finale is dark chocolate pudding with hazelnuts, coffee sherbet and praline mousse. Largely French wines and playful cocktails add punch.

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