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Hidden away on a steep cobbled street between the Royal Mile and Grassmarket, it’s easy to miss this smart eatery – now home to Scottish wunderkind chef Michael Neave. Still in his early twenties,
Neave has bags of skill and is aiming high with an ambitious menu that utilises seasonal, native and wild ingredients. Crab and crayfish ravioli is cooked al dente and served with delicate bisque
and a zesty salad of foraged sweet cicely, while meltingly tender Perthshire roe deer might be dressed with a rosemary and Auchentoshan whisky sauce. Results can be uneven, but there are moments of
real culinary pleasure too – such as a perfect pear tarte Tatin with an intense whisky marmalade ice cream. Polished service chimes with the cool formality of the contemporary dining room, although
a few drams in the ground-floor whisky bar should warm things up.
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