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Shoehorned into a former chippie on Wilton Way, Mayfields is a neighbourhood bistro of the type one encounters in fashionable Paris – although the only French thing about it is the wine list
(Borough Wines, across the way, is involved). Chef Matthew Young (ex-Wapping Food) steers the food on a wildly
international course, jumping from Italy to Japan across a voguish ‘small plates’ menu of smart food without fuss. The daily line-up of around a dozen dishes yields some dazzling results, ranging
from high-impact bottarga-coated mozzarella to ‘art on a plate’ in the form of lemon sole with paper-thin, liquorice-dusted daikon ‘scales’. Meanwhile, a combo of beef, lettuce, mint and mustard
provides a delicious inversion of the wraps served in nearby Mare Street’s budget Vietnamese joints. Not all dishes hit quite the same heights, but it’s all interesting stuff.
It’s a long way from anywhere that isn’t in Hackney, this restaurant. Fortunately, I was most of the way there, as I’d had to go and sit in a design studio in Shoreditch, for most of the afternoon, finishing off a pitch document.After proof-reading for four hours, I felt that I deserved.The taxi driver was sceptical. You sure there’s a restaurant here, love? Is it in that pub on the corner? No, it’s not in a pub, I’ve seen a picture, it must be further up. Can’t imagine it’s any good here mate, says the taxi driver. Thank you, I say, silently.I am meeting J, who is a designer-planner i.e. a planning specialist...
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