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But despite it now being over two decades since the USSR disintegrated, and despite the growing numbers of eastern Europeans now living in London, I had still not dined in a Russian restaurant. But that was easily rectified when I was invited to a Winter Warmer dinner at Mari Vanna. Following the success of sister restaurants in St Petersburg, Moscow and New York, Mari Vanna opened in Kinghstbridge, London in December 2011, a stone’s throw from Harrods. Walking into the candlelit interior is like stepping into the parlour of your eccentric Russian maiden aunt, who has a hoarding problem. Every inch of wall and...
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Mari Vanna, a Russian restaurant with subsidiaries in Moscow, St. Petersburg and New York, has recently opened a new outpost in – who would have guessed – the Little Russia of London, Knightsbridge. I naturally assumed it would be an overpriced pretentious place for noveau-riche Russians (well, this might have been covered with Novikov) and was pleasantly surprised to read a variety of good reviews (The Skinny Bib, John Lancaster at the Guardian )...
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