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Squaremeal Review of MARCUS ?

Marcus Wareing's "grandiose" two-Michelin-starred flagship has been given some new vim and vigour following its 2014 relaunch, with soft greens and chestnut browns replacing the austere maroon colours of yore. There's a more upbeat vibe too, and the menu has a newfound flexibility. We'd advise going the whole four-course hog, giving full access to the chef's delicate fish and vegetarian options – from barely cooked salmon with langoustine, buttermilk and calamansi to carrot with black garlic and pine nut. After that, wallow in his punch-packing meat and game specialities: Galloway beef fillet with oyster and Grelot onion; suckling pig sweetened with tomato and pomegranate; grouse with Fontina cheese, grapes and truffle. To conclude, the superb lemon meringue with iced tea under a frozen canopy demonstrates an "amazing lightness of touch" and artful construction. Wareing's food continues to evolve and his skills are as sharp as ever, while carefully paced service from "polished" staff, who genuinely seem to want their guests to enjoy themselves, makes a trip here "worth every penny".

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Former Sommelier's Award winner

A classic selection but an exceptionally good one, sommelier Michael Deschamps has managed to put together an awesome range of wines without succumbing to the temptation simply to buy anything that looks expensive. As well as some terrific wines from classic French regions, there are flashes of inspiration from Spain and California as well that give it real personality, as well as bling.

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  1. Published :

    Phil's Food World :: Phil's Food World: Review: Marcus at The Berkeley, Knightsbridge, London

    The importance of first impressions permeate many aspects of life. My first impression of Marcus will probably be one I won’t forget in a long time, simply because it’s seldom that staff (particularly at restaurants of this calibre) acknowledge your work, never mind beam with pride at the thought of you critiquing theirs.


    The man himself, Marcus Wareing, needs little introduction; most of you will know him from judging Masterchef: The Professionals, a position that the Southport-born chef seamlessly took over from the much-revered Michel Roux Jr. last year, or from his various appearances on Great...
    More from Phil's Food World »

  1. Published :

    The Hungry Porker :: The Hungry Porker Marcus at The Berkeley

    Man is born free, and everywhere he is in chains. Or rather, a chef is born free, and then they get a Michelin star. This tends to be my feeling whenever I come out of a two star restaurant. With the exception of Dinner by Heston, I’m yet to have a 2 star meal that was truly memorable. Fera, Sketch and The Square all blend into one memory. A memory of a certain type of cooking, one that was excellent at the time of eating, but forgettable soon afterwards. These restaurants sit in a purgatory. They lack that freshness and enthusiasm to push boundaries that many of the new 1 star restaurants do, and they aren’t the...
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  1. Published :

    Phil's Food World :: Phils Food World

    The importance of first impressions permeate many aspects of life. My first impression of Marcus will probably be one I won’t forget in a long time, simply because it’s seldom that staff (particularly at restaurants of this calibre) acknowledge your work, never mind beam with pride at the thought of you critiquing theirs.
    The man himself, Marcus Wareing, needs little introduction; most of you will know him from judging Masterchef: The Professionals, a position that the Southport-born chef seamlessly took over from the much-revered Michel Roux Jr. last year, or from his various appearances on Great British Menu...
    More from Phil's Food World »

Marcus Wareing

Southport fruit and veg merchant’s son Marcus Wareing has entered the ‘post-Gordon Ramsay’ phase of his career as a chef, restaurateur and judge on MasterChef: The Professionals. Wareing spent some 15 years working for Ramsay, at Aubergine, L’Oranger (his first head-chef gig), Pétrus and The Savoy Grill. Now his own man, he runs MARCUS at the Berkeley hotel (reopened in 2014), The Gilbert Scott (2011) and casual newcomer Tredwell’s (2014).

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Chef 10
Private Dining Room 16

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