MARCUS at The Berkeley 22

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Square Meal Review of MARCUS at The Berkeley ?

Marcus Wareing has rebranded his flagship dining room at The Berkeley as MARCUS, but don’t come here expecting a radical shake-up. Spotlessly laid tables and expertly decanted aristocratic wines still set the tone, although the austere maroon colour scheme has given way to soft greens and chestnut browns, and “impeccable” staff are a tad more upbeat. Wareing has a reputation for “fine dining and Michelin stars”, so the cooking still relies on technical prowess and bold Anglo-European accents: deeply flavoured Anjou pigeon accompanied by deep-fried legs for handheld nibbling; a subtle riff on clean-tasting scallops with cauliflower and cucumber; a beautifully balanced dish of sweetbreads, lettuce, pea and ham that looks set to become a classic; and a clever spin on warm chocolate with salted caramel ice cream. There’s no doubt that Wareing is evolving with the times, but we’re not sure MARCUS is actually an improvement on what went before.

Sommelier's Award 2013

Sommelier's AwardA classic selection but an exceptionally good one, sommelier Michael Deschamps has managed to put together an awesome range of wines without succumbing to the temptation simply to buy anything that looks expensive. As well as some terrific wines from classic French regions, there are flashes of inspiration from Spain and California as well that give it real personality, as well as bling.

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  1. Published : Monday, 14 April 2014

    Samphire and Salsify :: Marcus at The Berkeley

    Two Michelin starred Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley Hotel recently underwent an extensive refurb including, a name change to Marcus, in the hope of making it a much more relaxed affair. We had a brilliant lunch there a couple of years ago so when I received an invitation to review the new place, I jumped at the chance.

    The new look Marcus was a rather attractive one; it felt far less austere than it used to be. Gone were the purple felt walls and the champagne trolley and instead were bare tables (possibly too bare?) with crisp white tablecloths, dark wood panelled walls and plenty of natural light...


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  1. I used to go to that Marcus Wareing place in the Berkeley Hotel when it was a dead posh gaff, with its dark velvet walls and more waiters than you could shake a stick at, not that I’m in the business of shaking sticks at waiters. It was proper faine daining, with its two glittering Michelin stars, fabulous wine waiter and gloriously camp sweetie-chariot, from which you could choose a little going-home present, the demise of which causes deep sadness to this day.
    And some truly memorable meals there, mostly dinners, including a brilliant dish of cauliflower, seven ways and a pasta dish with vegetables embedded...
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  1. The importance of first impressions permeate many aspects of life. My first impression of Marcus will probably be one I won’t forget in a long time, simply because it’s seldom that staff (particularly at restaurants of this calibre) acknowledge your work, never mind beam with pride at the thought of you critiquing theirs.


    The man himself, Marcus Wareing, needs little introduction; most of you will know him from judging Masterchef: The Professionals, a position that the Southport-born chef seamlessly took over from the much-revered Michel Roux Jr. last year, or from his various appearances on Great...
    More from Phil's Food World »

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Marcus Wareing

Southport fruit and veg merchant’s son Marcus Wareing has entered the ‘post-Gordon Ramsay’ phase of his career as a chef, restaurateur and judge on MasterChef: The Professionals. Wareing spent some 15 years working for Ramsay, at Aubergine, L’Oranger (his first head-chef gig), Pétrus and The Savoy Grill. Now his own man, he runs MARCUS at the Berkeley hotel (reopened in 2014), The Gilbert Scott (2011) and casual newcomer Tredwell’s (2014).

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