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Square Meal Review of Madison ?

Businesslike black replaces the retro 1970s feel in D&D’s swift reworking of Madison, the subdued decor playing a supporting role to Jean Nouvel’s dramatic glass roof and the New York themed food. Low leather sofas hog the best views of St Paul’s and there’s an expansive feel to the terrace, where rugs and heaters keep chill weather at bay. The open kitchen pays due deference to current culinary fashion, offering hot dogs, burgers and Josper-grilled steaks. Start with assertively smoked prawns and lobster in bloody Mary sauce, or generous, sticky ribs with treacle and rose harissa. To follow, the 35 day-aged USDA strip loin is charred without and succulent within, while the pick of the burgers is the triple duck with breast patty, foie gras and confit. Round off with a gooey chocolate brownie accompanied by refreshing rum ice cream, or the bread and butter pudding with sharp rhubarb compote. Service is pleasant yet – on our visit – not yet entirely unflappable. Suits predominate at lunchtime, but Madison is more relaxed in the evenings, with DJs from Thursday to Saturday.

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