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Square Meal Review of Luciano ?

Chef-turned-TV celeb Marco Pierre White teamed up with his old sidekick Sir Rocco Forte to open this glitzy Italian, & he named the restaurant after his son, Luciano. The real highlight here is the huge, stylish bar area with its lofty ceilings, gunmetal-toned interior, murals, mosaic floor & piano. Booth tables are in high demand during noisy peak times, although there’s also a quieter dining room at the back. Dishes are true to their Italian roots & the kitchen doesn’t tamper with good natural ingredients: prosciutto is paired with figs, & buffalo mozzarella played off against wild mushrooms. For a touch more extravagance, there’s king scallops with Jerusalem artichoke, truffle & pancetta. Readers continue to complain about the high prices & patchy, inexperienced service, while applauding the excellent food & animated atmosphere. New World bottles lend a please-all dimension to the comprehensive Italian wine list.

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