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Named after chef Steve Love & his wife Claire, who looks after front-of-house, Loves is an ambitious sequel to their award-winning venue in Leamington Spa. The smart monochrome dining room is
run by ultra-efficient staff, who serve up a succession of beautifully crafted dishes bursting with genuine culinary flair. Steve’s cooking is complex & full of labour-intensive components –
witness Loch Duart salmon enlivened with creamy chive butter sauce, caviar & a moreish smoked eel croquette or perfectly timed Gloucester Old Spot pork belly alongside crisp nuggets of pig’s
tail, rich crépinette & black pudding crumble. Claire’s passion is wine & she is happy to make recommendations from her top-notch list. While the food & drink can’t be faulted, Loves is
let down by its out-of-the-way location & rather soulless new-build canalside setting, a lengthy walk from the bustling scene around Brindleyplace.
Something of an eyebrow-raiser, this list attempts something very difficult – and pulls it off with aplomb. The wines are listed in three different ways: by country, by grape and by trend. Some wines appear in several sections, others only in one. No wonder it took two years to put together: it’s very brave, but it works. And the ‘try something different’ suggestion (pointing browsers towards a wine in a similar style, but from a different grape or country) is a terrific touch. Elegant, clean and fun: the good folk of Birmingham are lucky…
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