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Square Meal Review of Locanda Locatelli ?


Not just a business banker, celeb chef Giorgio Locatelli’s “effortlessly chic” hideaway regularly crops up on Londoners’ special-occasion hit lists. “Expectations inevitably run pretty high”, notes one reader, but this place delivers impressively on all fronts. The reassuringly expensive daily menu reads winningly, from the understated mystery of a ‘summer salad’ to “exquisitely balanced” razor clam and tomato soup with fregola, superbly cooked calf’s liver with balsamic vinegar, Swiss chard, pine kernels and sultanas or steamed hake with braised fennel and sweet-and-sour sauce. Locatelli’s “absolutely incredible” pasta also engenders rave reviews. Elegant desserts follow traditional lines, but when there’s a cultural mash-up it’s likely to be deftly handled – witness Amalfi lemon Eton mess with lemon sorbet and Italian meringue. Details such as the opulent bread basket, “first-class service” and patrician Italian wine list add a final gloss to proceedings. Note the rather quaint bookings policy: via telephone only, during office hours

Wine List of the Year Sommelier's Award Finalist

As expected, a roll call of some of Italy’s best producers, Locanda Locatelli has built real buying power in this deeply patriotic list. You can sample big hitters from the likes of Gaja or Antinori, but those in the know prefer to explore the many boutique labels on offer instead.

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  1. Published : Saturday, 4 August 2012

    Saying it straight :: Liking Locanda Locatelli.

    The unexpected death of Central London during the Olympics meant I could get in on an hour’s notice. That never usually happens here, where visits have to be planned weeks in advance...
    More from Saying it straight »

Giorgio Locatelli

Giorgio Locatelli was born into a family of cooks in his native Lombardy and was pressed into helping out at his uncle’s Michelin-starred restaurant from the age of five. He left Italy for an apprenticeship under Anton Edelmann at the Savoy, then worked in Paris for three years before becoming head chef at Zafferano in 1995. He opened Locanda Locatelli with wife Plaxy in 2002. His Made in Italy cookbook is a modern classic.
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Essential Details for Locanda Locatelli

  • Address: 8 Seymour Street, London W1H 7JZ
  • Telephone: 020 7935 9088
  • Website:
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12N-3pm 6.45-11pm (Fri-Sat -11.30pm Sun -10.30pm)

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