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The Noble Inns group is behind this meaty Moorgate restaurant, which replaces its former venture Bad Egg (although its egg-heavy menu lives on, via a weekend brunch residency here). The restaurant’s focus is on using whole native and rare-breed animals, serving up everything from ribs to knuckles. The brooding interior features red leather and corrugated metal, while daily changing specials are the main event, written up on a blackboard above the kitchen counter. To start, we enjoyed a cold baba ganoush served with spicy mini-tacos. Meanwhile, the massive mains were perfect for sharing: we went for the deliciously tender and surprisingly light T-bone pork, alongside sweet potato wedges with harissa and feta. We also enjoyed a portion of skinny fries, which we dipped in a rich, aged-beef mayonnaise (Little Smoke boasts a homemade range of sauces). Desserts mostly impressed, with hazelnut profiteroles nicely mixing crunchy and creamy textures, although the sticky toffee pudding could do without its boiled-apple topping. Like the meat, the wine list favours small producers, including a Chardonnay from Kent and two English sparklers. Reasonable prices and staff who know their way around the menu make this an impressive debut.
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