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One of the biggest names on the Paris restaurant scene, the two-Michelin-starred Le Taillevent recently alighted in London, taking over what was an imposing branch of Coutts bank. The high-ceilinged interior struck us as a bit bland, but there's no disputing the main attraction here – 'les 110' wines by the glass, with a fistful matched to each course on an easily navigable menu. While it's possible to drink very well across the range, there are fewer bargains for food, though the cooking is absolutely comme il faut. "Truly gorgeous" classics such as a robustly flavoured salad of duck egg and lardons might precede veal kidneys in a glossy balsamic and port sauce or a show-stopping giant vol-au-vent filled with a treasure trove of sweetbreads and crayfish. To finish, contemporary takes on tarte au citron and rum baba await. Overall, this enlightened wine-friendly brasserie reflects "the well-earned confidence" of the Paris original.
I’d done a double take when I’d seen the hoardings around the old Coutts building with the word Taillevent plastered over them. It couldn’t be something to do with the legendary Taillevent restaurant in Paris, I thought, not here, opposite the back entrance of John Lewis.But I was wrong. Brand Taillevent was never going to venture into in the grungy gastropub arena, so you will not be surprised to learn that this is a formal brasserie, the twist being the one hundred and ten wines (the “110” in the name) served by the glass.Targeting a similar clientèle to its predecessor in title, this is an elegant,...
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Discrete and elegant, since 1941 Taillevent has been one of the mainstays of the Parisian gastronomic establishment. The Gardinier family who have owned the restaurant since 2011 have opened a much more price forgiving brasserie offer in Paris and now in London that echoes the original and takes advantage of the restaurant’s massive wine cellar.
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Sometimes I surprise even myself. I am not talking here of my witty eloquence. Nor of my transcendent photo taking skills. Nor of the almost implausible manner in which I weave these two together. Instead, it was a visit of a teetotaller to a restaurant known for its rather diverse and far reaching wine cellar. Guess my companion will have to make up for my lack.
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