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Formerly One Leicester Street, this hotel dining room has ditched the acclaimed British menu in favour of Vietnam. The compact room is now a lesson in restrained class, with smart teal panelling and maroon leather chairs. Food is described as ‘Colonial Vietnamese’, which translates as Vietnamese or French dishes with occasional fusion, such as banh mi filled with duck liver parfait. On our visit, quality varied wildly: dark, dense bone broth, packed with chewy pulled pork, plump crab wontons and fennel, was superb; a plate of squid and samphire tasted only of salt. A colourful venison and asparagus salad was enlivened by tart black radish, while crispy deep-fried quail was let down by bland flesh. Fun desserts include chocolate pot presented like a cappuccino, or there are tempting French cheeses and an adventurous cocktail list. Leicester House doesn’t do everything right, but it’s worth visiting for that bone broth alone.
The property that was formerly the St John Hotel and One Leicester has reopened as Leicester House. Located handily behind the main stripe of Chinatown, East meets West is the concept for the restaurant with 50 cover (as well as being a 17 bedroom boutique hotel).Food is described here as "Colonial Vietnamese", a fusion of French and Vietnamese. You will not find phở, bánh cuốn nor bún chả here. But you can order a bánh mì, a Vietnamese style baguette sandwich (it's not on the photo of the menu that I took, the menu online does have bánh mì)...
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In case you’re a little behind with the news, the famous St John Hotel off Leicester Square is out and in its places is a new French-Vietnamese restaurant (their words not mine), Leicester House. The site seems to have been doomed from the day it first came to life and changed through more hands than it should have in the past few years. Location can’t be blamed either, because after all – it’s slap bang in the middle of central London. There is a light at the end of this dark and gloomy tunnel however, with the arrival of the new Leicester House restaurant. This transformed Georgian townhouse is looking stunning...
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