Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecote 1

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Squaremeal Review of Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecote ?

“I love the concept of this place”, trumpets a fan of this seriously unfashionable Parisian steakhouse chain: look through the window before opening time and you’ll see staff eating their customary communal meal – it’s one of many unchanging traditions here. The bistro interior is dominated by garish paintings of Venetian scenes and there’s no menu: as always, dinner comprises a nutty, dressed green salad and a decent-enough steak served with the tarragon-inflected house sauce and frites. The meat is brought in two hefty servings, while the combination of a fully loaded dessert trolley plus quick-fire service may necessitate some belt loosening – expect to remain “un-coddled” throughout. A neat wine list does its job too. “This isn’t a steak-sniffer’s paradise”, notes one reviewer, “but it’s handy to have up your sleeve”. No bookings, so be prepared to queue.

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