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While stablemates Sexy Fish and the revamped Ivy might hog the column inches, the restaurant which gave its name to Caprice Holdings remains the stealth wealth option, beloved of Mayfair hedge funders, auction house grandees and famous faces who come without fear of being papped. Dine here once and legendary maître d' Jesus Adorno will remember your face forever. The long menu rarely changes, but neither does the quality: always "super delicious" and with enough choice to prevent boredom for regulars. We've yet to be disappointed by the char-grilled octopus with chorizo, Padrón peppers with capers, chicken milanese or seared calf's liver with caramelised onions and pancetta, but if we wanted variety we might plump for shrimp and sea bass ceviche or miso-marinated salmon with shiitake and pak choy. Rattan chairs and a monochrome colour scheme recall the restaurant's 1980s heyday, with David Bailey portraits and live jazz adding to the "understated sophistication". With splendid brunch too, Le Caprice is "excellent in every way".
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