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Square Meal Review of La Collina ?

A canny neighbourhood restaurant for this well-to-do part of town, La Collina hits the spot by offering the comforting familiarity of Italian cuisine presented with a contemporary sheen. There’s nothing precious about the place: it’s relaxed and eager to please. Inside offers soothing neutrality, neither too smart nor too homely, and the terrace out back (or pavement tables out front) make for a proper Mediterranean ambience when the mercury is up. The kitchen matches creamy burrata with speck, or grilled vegetables for the non-meat eaters, and takes the time to serve scallops Venetian-style with breadcrumbs and sun-dried tomatoes. Pasta is also worth a shout – a classic Sardinian sausage number (malloreddus alla campidanese), or tagliatelle with crab and chilli. Carry on with sweet and sour sardines or grilled lamb chop and wind up with tiramisu or Italian ice cream. The country’s top wine regions get a good showing on the drinks list.
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