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Declared a "bastion of the West End", L'Escargot has been around since 1927 and every inch of this creaking, comfortably grand building speaks of its history. Black-and-white photographs of esteemed guests pepper the walls alongside eclectic artworks, while dark woods, chandeliers and bright colours adorn the warren of rooms. Choose the ground floor for the full bourgeois townhouse experience assisted by plates of duck confit, coq au vin or chateaubriand for two. Despite its age, this gourmand gastropod has slithered with the times, hence the appearance of, say, soy-glazed beef brisket with pak choy. Ideas and flavours tend to be more competent than captivating, but the signature escargots are predictably plump, and superb Androuët cheeses go down well with a Bordeaux Supérieur from the accessibly priced wine list. We'd add one caveat though: "patchy" off-the-ball service doesn't always justify the "market-leading" 14.5% service charge.
Including bearnaise sauce, frites, side salad and a glass of bubbly each.
Available: 11 January 2017
Max: 6 people
Expires: 15 April 2017
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.
From a set menu.
Available: 06 January 2017
Max: 8 people
Expires: 06 April 2017
Maximum of 8 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.
It seems that ‘Old Soho’ is having something of a resurgence at the moment. Have the foodies of London finally tired of queuing for burgers? I have a feeling that trends in the restaurant world follow trends in fashion – and both are influenced by the state of the economy. Skirt lengths are supposed to rise as we get more of an economic ‘feel good’ factor. I wonder whether perhaps our taste in eating out also changes – from no-booking, informal dining to something just a little bit more refined?The last time I was at l’Escargot was right in the height of the economic boom of the late 1980s, the Thatcher...
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I remember first visiting L’Escargot back in the Marco Pierre White days and it was stuffy, fussy and a little bit shit. It was then taken over by a lovely chap called Brian Clivaz (who’s also soon to open a new swanky members club in Devonshire Square) and a club prive was added above the ground floor restaurant.I was surprised to see the place rather empty on my Thursday lunch visit. As I got comfy in my armchair it did however make me feel like I was in the drawing room of my very own stately home – which is always a nice thing at lunch...
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